North Kohala transforms into country resembling an open savanna as development stops. At the north tip of the island you literally turn a corner and enter the old sugar plantation days. The little town of Hawi welcomes you at the base of the verdant green Kohala Mountains. Hit hard by the end of the sugar days the town sat poor and neglected until it was discovered by the wealthy, reclusive crowd. Their habitations are hidden away on large land parcels, but they like good restaurants, shops, and galleries, so they have brought new life to Hawi and its sister town Kapa’au. The dedication to the community’s preservation means no fast food or other franchises, and a slow, end of the road pace. Past these two hamlets the road becomes narrow and winding, and then it ends with the lookout at Pololu point. At this threshold, one looks down the Hamakua coast into a set of wilderness valleys accessible only by boat or to hikers.